From the deep blue bays of the Greek islands, fishermen take to sea in small boats known as varka. Each afternoon, the varka deliver their still-flopping catch to the docks, where they are met by cooks who rush the fish home to be grilled. Their seasonings are simple: Olive oil and lemon juice, fresh herbs from the garden, and the kiss of the Mediterranean breeze. This the flavor captured by Varka Estiatorio: the taste of sunshine and salt air, and a freshness rarely found more than steps from the Aegean. From tender grilled octopus to Ouzo-steamed mussels to charcoal-grilled whole fish, every bite is a taste of the finest the sea has to offer.